Food & Drink
Two beers and a gourmet meal, please!
“We’re incredibly lucky to have found premises such as these in the middle of Copenhagen,” master brewer Tobias Emil Jensen says. “It’s very difficult to find buildings with such high ceilings and a load-bearing floor as well as proper drainage.”
The building and the location of the new Tapperiet BRUS at Guldbergsgade 29 F are both perfect. The beautifully renovated industrial hall was once home to an iron foundry and its neighbors are the Empire Bio movie theater and Christian Puglisi’s Bæst restaurant. It’s also just a few hundred meters from the place where it all began: in the kitchen of Det Frie Gymnasium school.
Master brewers Tore Gynther and Tobias Emil Jensen had a rather unusual physics teacher in high school. He was called Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, who would go on to start Mikkeller, and after school he taught them a bit about brewing beer.
Together they experimented with beer-making in the school kitchen and it went so well that Bjergsø was able to found the now world-renowned micro-brewery Mikkeller. The two apprentices continued at Mikkeller for a time, but since 2010 they have been brewing on their own under the name To Øl and have gained plenty of international recognition for their craftsmanship. They have produced more than 150 different kinds of beer, and in 2014, after just four years on the market, they were ranked the World’s 9th Best Brewery. Today, their beers are exported to over 40 countries. All this has been done so far as a “gypsy brewery”, with no brewery facilities of their own, instead renting space from others.
Their new place, Tapperiet BRUS houses a brewery, bar, bottling hall, and store, as well as gourmet restaurant Spontan, with Christian Gadient, formerly a Michelin-starred chef at D’Angleterre’s Marchal restaurant, at the helm.
The place is bright, accessible, and friendly, and there is an open brewery and an open kitchen.
“We love showing people our craft,” Jensen says. “So, if a group dining in the restaurant wants to follow the process, they can have their table moved right next to the tanks.”
In the tanks they brew beer for drinking straight away, vintage beer for storing in barrels, and cocktails on tap. Then resident cocktail and tonic master Morten Bruun creates fantastic “fizz” – gourmet soda water using fresh ingredients such as rhubarb and sorrel.
The hallmark of both the beer and the fizz is a highly professional yet unpretentious and experimental approach. So, for example, you can quench your thirst with wittily named beers such as Yeastus Christus or Peardon my French, brewed using new American hop varieties that have a fruitier flavor than the old European types. rocessen. de er interesserede i detab i restauranten at få flyttet bordet helt hen til bryggekarene, så de kan følge med i arbThey brew according to German brewing traditions, where most of the process can be monitored, and there is craftsmanship in every drop.
“Our special beers and cocktails are created more for the pleasure of the taste than for getting drunk,” Jensen says. “It’s about respect for craftsmanship and the taste experience. And we always want to keep developing to create the best possible microbrewery.”
Christian Gadient’s restaurant is also open and experimental, and at the same time sublime.
As the restaurant’s name suggests, the chef can be very spontaneous, with the menu influenced by the season, the best ingredients on any given day, and even the chef’s mood.
The standard is sky-high, but the brewery’s unpretentious and hospitable atmosphere overflows into Spontan, so you still feel at home even though you’re eating food as good as at D’Angleterre. A combination that works amazingly well.
Text: Lise Hannibal
Published: June 14, 2016